Continued from last week…
Another secret I learned is that the aging process not only intensifies flavor but also shrinks the meat. So after the meat is cut and prepared by the butcher it will only reduce a small amount when cooked. Most meats can shrink by 50% in the cooking process. This aged meat is already reduced so you are getting much more for your money. Jose and Dominique have created unique cuts of meat at Le Marais like their “surprise” (top of the rib eye) and “tournedo” (middle of the rib eye, used for pepper steak, steak au poive or as a roast).
Today, Le Marais’s aged meats, served in the restaurant and also sold behind the butcher counter, are some of the most tender and delicious cuts of meat found in the kosher world.
Jose gave us some tips on how to make sure your meat is flavorful.
1. First, buy aged meat
2. Never cook meat more than medium rare. Well-done meat is tough to chew and loses its flavor.
3. Let your meat rest after cooking and before slicing and serving. This ensures that the flavorful juices stay in the meat and does not run off as you cut the meat. Ten minutes is plenty of time for meat to rest before slicing.
4. Don’t be afraid of fat. Fat gives meat flavor. The marbleizing in meat will add flavor.
5. Use second cut brisket, it has more flavor.
Jose also gave me some information on the best ways to cook certain cuts of meat.
Best for Braising: minute steak, short ribs, and brisket
Best for Stew: Veal or Beef Shank
Best for Grilling: anything lean, Le Marais Surprise, silver tip
Best for Pan Searing: Le Marais Tournedo, rib eye, prime rib
Today, Jose loves to cook for his family and friends big one-pot meals and he says his fridge is always stocked with good meat. But what else can he not live without?? Fresh Parmesan and good chocolate. No wonder we all love Le Marais. He clearly has a good palate.
Try the recipes from Le Marais, at www.gourmetpassovercooking.com. They are amazing! Imagine restaurant quality food for Passover at home too, remarkable.
Le Marais is located at 150 West 46th Street in NYC, 212 869-0900
Their butcher is Kosher for Passover starting March 8th. They are open for Passover, for complete schedule and menu, go to Lemarais.net. They ship nationally.
Also, try The Clubhouse, owned by Jose Meirelles, at 155 West 46th Street in NYC, 212 354-3838